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Chef Spotlight: Luis Bollo on the spirit of Spanish cuisine - NBC Latino

Vitals: Born and raised in San Sebasti?n, a city in the north of Spain?s Basque country, Chef Luis Bollo is the executive chef at Salinas in New York City. Bollo ? who counts his Basque roots as one of his primary culinary inspirations ? trained in Spain and worked at several Michelin starred restaurants in Europe before moving to Mexico and eventually relocating to New York City. Bollo has been praised as an innovative Spanish talent by The New York Times, New York Post, Food & Wine and many other publications. Although he?s a man with simple tastes (you?ll find out one of his guilty pleasures below), he considers roast suckling pig one of his trademarks, a succulent dish that has been named ?Best Suckling Pig? from New York Magazine?s Best of Food and Drink 2012 awards.

Experience: A graduate of the San Sebasti?n Culinary School in Spain, Bollos has opened several Spanish restaurants both in New York City and Connecticut within the last fifteen years. As a creative chef who transforms traditional recipes by use of modern gastronomic technique, Bollo has been named ?Chef of the Year? by Esquire magazine. Salinas, which Bollo opened in 2011, has been awarded two stars from The New York Times and has been named one of New York City?s best restaurants by multiple food critics.

On his earliest food memory: ?I remember going with my grandfather to farmer?s markets when I was quite young, no more than six years old. He would take his time selecting the freshest ingredients available and that something like that stays with you always. Food is all about sharing among people and those hours with my grandfather among beautiful produce and ingredients taught me that.?

Why Spain prides itself on the simplicity of its cuisine: ?Spain is a country where ingredients form the base of our cuisine. It?s not our spices or techniques; instead, the proteins, grains and vegetables drive our culinary tradition. You see it in the fish dishes of the coast; the paellas that were perfected by peasants. And that?s why you see even the most innovative of Spanish chefs staying true to their heritage by putting ingredients first ? it?s in our blood.?

On driving Spanish food forward: ?What I want to do with my menu is present different cultures under the umbrella of Spanish cuisine, but in a way that represents me. I really believe in doing an urban expression of Spanish cuisine; it?s key to moving it gastronomically forward. I am Spanish ? I know its flavors, techniques and ingredients. I know how a dish [works] and can appreciate it, but I use my knowledge of tradition through which to create excitement through food. In that way, I give both myself and my diners [the chance] to try a new way of Spanish food and move it forward. No gimmicks ? just traditional recipes, done my way with a twist.?

The secret to the roast pig that?s earned him multiple awards: ?It starts with the best, freshest suckling pig I can find. That means the meat should be without bruises, absolutely pristine. I use a cut that?s about 14-15 pounds and cook it for 12 hours overnight in a bath of oil, chicken broth and herbs at 180 degrees ? almost like a confit. The end result of a very soft roast meat with a gorgeous, immaculate skin. Then I oven roast the meat to order in a 450 degree oven for about 30 minutes, which crisps up the skin without drying out the juicy meat. The sauces and garnishes I use to dress the pork may vary, but the technique remains the same ? absolutely delicious.?

On his best asset as a chef: ?People that understand your philosophy ? not just for a check but as a way of living ? help me and the restaurant become better every day. It was an incredible challenge to put together a great team at Salinas, but after two years I feel confident in saying that we could not have become who we are without the people who push us to improve every day. From financial partners to servers and front of house staff, we are all one team and I couldn?t do my job without them all.?

On his guilty pleasure: ?For some reason, the best food is always the stuff that?s worse for your health ? and in my case, I love donuts. I don?t eat many of them but when I see a soft, fresh donut I just can?t resist them. The problem is you can never eat just one!?

Chef Luis Bollo shares his recipe for?Rossejat Rapida?below ? one of the most popular dishes at Salinas, it?s similar to traditional paella in flavor but easy to make at home with a saut? pan (no paella pans needed here!) and the use of fideos (vermicelli noodles) instead of bomba rice.

Rossejat Rapida

Rossejat Rapida (Photo/Courtesy Salinas Restaurant)

Rossejat Rapida

6 oz. Fideo pasta (Vermicelli can be substituted)

1 tbsp sofrito (recipe follows)

1 tbsp saffron aioli (recipe follows)

12 oz. chicken broth

4 oz. chicken breast, cut into a small dice

3 oz. dried sweet chorizo, cut into a small dice

2 oz. fava beans, blanched and peeled

juice from one lemon

1 dash smoked paprika

1 tsp. garlic, minced

8 ea. cockles

1 tsp. parsley, chopped fine

Sofrito:

1. In a saut? pan, heat ? cup olive oil and caramelize 1 onion and 3 garlic cloves on low heat

2. Once browned, add 1 8oz. can of peeled plum tomatoes

3. Cook for an additional 30 minutes and blend in a food processor until smooth

Saffron Aioli:

1. Place 2 garlic cloves, a pinch of saffron, and 3 tbsp water in a blender and puree

2. In a bowl, mix ? cup of mayonnaise and the garlic saffron puree

For the Rossejat Rapida:

1. Take 8oz. of Fideo (or Vermicelli) pasta and break into 1 inch pieces

2. In a saut? pan, add ? cup of the canola oil. Heat oil to 250F and toast pasta until light brown

3. In a saut? pan, heat 1 tbsp olive oil and cook the minced garlic and diced chicken

4. Once garlic is browned, deglaze with white wine

6. Cook until nearly all broth has been absorbed. Add cockles and return to oven until they open.

7. Remove from oven and add chorizo, fava beans, parsley, and saffron aioli. Mix well.

8. Place into large bowl and garnish with teaspoon of saffron aioli and watercress.

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Source: http://nbclatino.com/2013/05/30/chef-spotlight-luis-bollo-on-the-spirit-of-spanish-cuisine/

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